Colour Matching in Fashion
The “Normal” That Never Feels Normal to New founders and early stage brands
There are parts of the fashion process that feel completely second nature and the frustration of colour matching is one of them.
Receiving lab dips, comparing shade variations across different fabrics, and approving within an industry-standard tolerance is just part of the process of development. Its expected. You build time for it. You know different yarns all take dye differently. You understand that “the same colour” can look like three different shades depending on finish, and light source, and you know to expect to be annoyed with it all.
But for many founders and early-stage brands who are new to the industry and deeply invested in their vision this is often one of the hardest realities to explain.
Because to someone new, colour feels absolute.
But colour is just not an exact science.
There is always a tolerance. There will always be shade differences. And at some point in the process, you have to view the colour through a commercial lens not just a creative one.
And this is exactly why a well-planned critical path isn’t just a nice-to-have… it’s critical.
You need the time built in for dyeing, re-dyeing, approving, comparing, and aligning expectations. Colour development isn’t something you rush it’s something you manage.
So if you’re building a brand and find yourself confused or frustrated by lab dips, don’t worry you’re not doing anything wrong. This is simply part of how real product gets made. And with the right planning, the right partners, and the right expectations, it becomes a smooth, reliable part of the process.
Why colour isn’t actually exact.
Different fibres, finishes, and constructions absorb dye differently
Light source changes perception (daylight vs showroom vs store lighting)
Not to mention....everyone sees colour shade differently
Colour matching is a process, not a one-time decision,its a recipe that changes and its manged and approved by multiple people along the chain...did I mention we all see colout differently?
Even if its the exact same composition, labdips wont have any of the finishings that you may be adding to your bulk fabric, so this will cause a difference in how they take colour.
Also, labdips are created in a different way, with a different recipe to the huge bulk process that happens in production, this is going to throw up slight variations.
Tolerances
Because it cant be an exact process, there is a tolerance that factories and dye houses work to.
±1–2% difference
Visually acceptable under D65 lighting
“Commercially acceptable” match
The key is knowing when the difference in shade/colour is in tolernace and acceptable or when you need to see a second round, or reject a labdip or bulk submit.
Honestly this only comes with experience and time, and it's a lot harder for founders/owners that dont have the industry background. With time you’ll learn what is commercially acceptable and what is brand damaging.
When to use a commercial eye
We all want a perfect match , but in real life production, the perfect lab dip may not be achievable. There will always be Fabric limitations and no matter how many round of lab dipping, sometimes you just cant change this.
Lead times matter MASSIVELY, 100% you will find that with all the planning in the world, there is no time in the CP to see another round of labdips or to re-dye bulk.
Costs matter. It's costly to keep lab dipping and some factories will flat out refuse and others may pass on the cost of this to you. Plus Hello!! DHL Costs.
Theres also the larger business costs of missing launch dates or rearrange shoots.
At a certain point you shift from creative perfection → commercial practicality.
How can we manage this?
1. Start early
Brief colours at the beginning of your development calendar.
Colour development needs dedicated time for:
Lab dip submissions
Re-submissions (very common)
Bulk dyeing
Approvals and corrections
Cross-fabric matching
Rushing = delays, mismatches, late deliveries.
2. Give a physical colour standard
Pantone chips, fabric swatches, or previous bulk references.
3. Approve under the correct light
Always D65 / daylight, and always consistently.
4. Compare across all fabrics at the same time
Knit, woven, trims , line them up.
5. Record approvals clearly
Label “OK to Proceed,” “Re-dip,” or “Hold.” - Put dates, write down who approved it (this is important, people forget) Keep in a folder, BE ORGANISED, you will thank yourself later.
Tips for Founders
Don’t panic when shades differ. It’s expected
Where possible, limit the number of different fabrics to minimise shade issues.
Trust your product developer / technical team
Plan buffer time, and then some more.
Choose suppliers experienced with your fabric type
Think big picture: consistency across the range beats perfection on one SKU